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Collection  ·  4 min read

The Watch That Was Always Going to Happen

The watch 99.9% of people will never recognize. That's exactly why I bought it.

By @midlifecrisiswatches·

Last year, I was fortunate to purchase my first Laurent Ferrier piece, a SportAuto. It has been a staple in my rotation ever since. I had been building a relationship with Shreve, Crump & Low, an authorized retailer for multiple brands, when they introduced me to Laurent Ferrier and his collection. It didn't take long to be completely mesmerized by what 37 years as technical director at Patek Philippe can produce: the fit, finishing, and overall packaging are absolutely top notch.

Shreve had a fantastic selection of LF pieces and the ones that always stood out were the Classic Moon Silver and Classic Moon Blue. Recently, I came across the Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen (LCF004.R5.VR1) and I imagine it will land on my list soon. Absolutely stunning.

But why the Classic Moon?

Let's trace this back to Rolex. Yes, Rolex. My favorite piece in the Rolex collection, outside the Panda Daytona, is the Day-Date. It's an elegant watch with a touch of sport, and super utilitarian since I'm always forgetting what day it is. For me, this is a tool watch, in the least-strict sense of that term. If you told me I could only keep two Rolexes, the answer is easy: the Panda Daytona and the white gold Day-Date 228239 in Blue Ombre. An early version of the Day Date, the Rolex "Padellone" reference 8171 reminds me a lot of the Classic Moon Silver.

My taste has been evolving. As you've probably noticed, Rolex as a percentage of my collection has continued to shrink as new brands have come in: Laurent Ferrier, Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Holtinrichs, A. Lange & Söhne, and others. The collection is becoming materially more well-rounded, which I like. I've also been gravitating hard toward understated luxury, which has pulled me further from the Rolex camp, with two recent exceptions: a pickup from Falco Watches of the 16713 Root Beer (Year 2000) and a Submariner 5513.

So follow the logic. I appreciate the Day-Date complication. I want understated luxury. The Classic Moon checks both. That's how these things happen.

Every single time I've visited Shreve in Boston over the last 365 days, I've admired that piece. I've consistently told the team there, Tai, Glenn, Spence, and Brian, that I'd pick one up eventually. Just needed the stars to align.

About a month ago, they did. I pulled the trigger and haven't looked back.

The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon is the understated Rolex Day-Date, but about 10x better, IMHO. I love that 99.9% of people have no idea what it is. I also love that it's not instantly identifiable by the bracelet alone. Walking around with this on my wrist, I'm not looking over my shoulder.

So where does the 10x come from? Start with the open caseback and the 266-component movement, the Caliber LF126.02 with manual wind. The fit and finish that Laurent Ferrier is known for is fully on display here.

Flip it over and you've got an annual calendar with a moonphase. The first time Mr. Ferrier has ever put a moonphase on any of his watches. The dial is satin-finished silver. Hour and minute hands are Assegai-shaped, 18K/750 white gold, 210 Pd, treated with Ruthenium. The seconds hand is baton-shaped, same gold spec, no counterweight, also treated with Ruthenium.

The case is 18K red gold, 40mm, 12.9mm thick, and perfectly proportioned for my ~18cm wrist. The brown calf, hand-sewn strap with Alcantara lining is supple and comfortable right out of the box.

Most people won't notice a watch on your wrist. They don't care. But there's that 10% who do. Of that 10%, maybe 0.1% will know what this piece is. To me, that's the whole point.

The Watch That Was Always Going to Happen | MidlifeCrisisWatches